Nov 26

Sewing Machine Review: Artisan 797 AB Industrial Walking Foot

Several months ago I realized I needed an industrial sewing machine. My Pfaff 130 was too cumbersome to use and the Alphasew is not flexible enough for the sewing I have been doing. I wanted a machine with a straight stitch, reverse and walking foot. Since I wasn’t using it, I sold the Pfaff 130.

I watched craigslist for about a month before a machine showed up that fit my needs – the Artisan 797AB. The price was $300.00 And although the machine had obviously been well used, it was not to the point that the paint was worn off. You have to push a lot of fabric through a machine to wear the paint off from a sewing machine, so I feel that I can estimate the amount of wear on the inside components by the amount of paint left on the outside.

During my search, there were few walking foot machines to choose from. Most of the machines out there are standard non walking foot machines or are too worn to be reliable.

A Closer Look at Artisan 797AB:

Fortunately, I was able to download a PDF owners manual for my new (used) machine from their website at http://www.artisansew.com. The manual is quite complete and along with the basics also includes information on how to adjust the hook timing, feed dog adjustments. etc. Having the manual makes a huge difference in learning to use the machine, which is a real bonus.

The basic specifications for the Artisan XX machine are:

  • Medium to heavyweight fabric and leather

  • 2000 maximum SPM

  • 8mm maximum stitch length

  • Presser foot lift 7/16”

  • 14-22 needle which should be adequate for thread sizes from 33 to 138

  • M size big bobbin

  • Full rotating hook

  • Lubrication by oil bath

  • Reverse lever

Tension and thread path are well controlled on the Artisan 797 AB

Tension and thread path are well controlled on the Artisan 797 AB

The walking foot is a great help when sewing heavy fabric. It helps to eliminate slippage.

The walking foot is a great help when sewing heavy fabric. It helps to eliminate slippage.

Differences Between Home and Industrial Machines:

One of the main differences between a home sewing machine and an industrial machine is the way the motor is constructed. Most industrial machines use a 1/2 horsepower motor that always runs at full speed.

Most industrial sewing machines have a 1/2 horsepower motor

Most industrial sewing machines have a 1/2 horsepower motor

When you press the foot pedal it actuates a clutch that engages the machine. This really takes some getting used to. When I started using the machine, I was worried that I might never get used to the power and speed of the machine. It takes very little pressure to get the machine up to the full speed of 2000 stitches per minute. After a month though, I am getting used to it and now I really appreciate the speed and smooth operation of the machine.

There is an oil pan below the machine and a full rotary hook driven by a geared shaft

There is an oil pan below the machine and a full rotary hook driven by a geared shaft

This machine is listed as being suited to sewing medium to heavyweight fabrics. I tested it using a #14 needle and #40 thread and it performed quite well on fabric that has some “body” to it. It doesn’t work well on extremely light silky fabric, yet has no problem with heavier fabric and #92 thread. It doesn’t bog down at all on anything that will fit under the presser foot. The tension is very forgiving and stays adjusted on many different thicknesses of fabric.

Things to Know:

There are a few downsides to an industrial machine though:

  • Big and HEAVY, not at all portable.

  • Needs special needles and bobbins.

  • Not as flexible as a home machine as far as attachments and stitches (it won’t sew button holes for instance)

  • A learning curve to get used to the faster speed and power.

These disadvantages are far outweighed by the benefits this type of machine has to offer. I’m extremely happy with the performance of this machine and I’m glad I bought it.

Be sure to leave your comments or questions below. Don’t forget to checkout the rest of my site and view some of my latest projects.

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Nov 06
The B2850 backpack has 2850 cu in capacity and weighs less than 2 pounds.

The B2850 backpack has 2850 cu in capacity and weighs less than 2 pounds.

My B2850 backpack is complete and loaded with goodies! There’s a lot to discuss so let’s start off with the basics. The backpack is 2850 cubic inches and has a body made of 200D nylon with a strong bottom of 400D nylon. I used a framesheet for suspension, load lifters, compression straps –the works. Knowing that every little inch and element counts; I also included a handy adjustable/removable lid and collar to increase the capacity.

Because I wanted to keep the pack lightweight, I used a top-loading design, but added a lacing system on the exterior for jackets and the like. It works great for those need-to-access-quickly items. Furthermore, I gave the pack two zippered pockets on either side that are easy to access, but will still keep your valuables safe.

Zippered pockets on the B2850

Zippered pockets on the B2850

The great news is that this backpack can definitely be made with a home sewing machine. I decided to you use both my Kenmore 1802 as well as my Artisan Industrial machine to test out both of them. Both worked very well and I was pleasantly surprised to conclude that a home machine can do the job.

Shoulder  and sternum strap

Shoulder and sternum strap

Here are my lessons-learned from the experience:

  • The biggest problem I faced was keeping in mind that every step had to be done in proper sequence. For example, the bladder pocket must be sewn to the framesheet pocket prior to sewing the framesheet pocket to the body.
  • Shoulder straps can be difficult at first because of the need to insert the foam properly. Fortunately, it only takes a few tries to get the hang of it.
  • Don’t underestimate the time it takes to make the pack.
  • It will be a challenging, yet very rewarding project.

My recommendation is to start off with a sewing project that is a little more basic, unless you’re experienced. For example, a good starter project is sewing a duffel bag or a zipper pouch. The bonus is that you will have a handy new bag, as well as get great experience in making your own outdoor gear.

Best of luck and be sure to leave comments and/or questions.

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Oct 16
One of the toughest backpacks Ive ever used

One of the toughest backpacks I've ever used

Greetings, everyone. My name is Amy Wise-Bacis and I had the pleasure of gear testing for Elements Refined on my latest canyoneering trip to Zion National Park in Southern Utah. As a landscape photographer I need all of my gear to perform well in the toughest conditions. My plan was to test backpack B1950 (designed and hand-made by Elements Refined) in some of Utah’s toughest environments. Not only did the plan include hiking, navigating backcountry trails, scrambling over boulders, but also rappelling into icy, deep water pools.

B1950 after a day of abuse in Zions Canyons!

B1950 after a day of abuse in Zion's Canyons!

To the right is an image of Elements Refined’s backpack, B1950 on the sandstone of Zion’s beautiful backcountry. The outer lace-up section worked like a charm for carrying the rope. The drawstring feature on the outside was a god-send when we needed to access the rope quickly. Having the bottom reinforced with sturdy material was essential due to the constant boulder scrambling required to get through the canyon.
The minimal weight of this pack was a huge benefit since we were doing about a 10-hour excursion. The entire pack only weighs 24 ounces!
After swimming through pool after pool, rappelling through small waterfalls, and navigating narrow canyon openings, the pack continued to perform. This final image was after we had cleared the hairy sections of the canyon. It still looks brand new!
A special thanks to Elements Refined for allowing me to use-and-abuse one of their packs. It worked like a charm and never let me down. I’m looking forward to the opportunity to test more products! For images from the trip check out my Zion Gallery.

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Aug 12

I currently own four sewing machines. Each one offers some desirable features, but none of them have all of the features I would like. If you already own or can borrow a sewing machine, I would suggest trying it. Most outdoor gear projects can be sewn on any home sewing machine without too much trouble.

If you need to purchase a machine, I recommend looking at an older, used, all mechanical machine. These older machines are usually made of metal and with a little care will last for many years. Most machines will sew a straight stitch forward and reverse. A good addition is a zig zag stitch. The zig zag stitch is good for strengthening high stress areas like shoulder straps.

Kenmore 1802

Kenmore model 1802

Kenmore model 1802

  • It’s about 30 years old and I use it for most of my outdoor projects.

  • The frame is made of aluminum, so it is relatively light compared to some of the cast iron framed machines.

  • It has a variety of stitches but I find the straight stitch, zig zag, four step zig zag (stretch stitch) to be very useful. I use the stretch stitch more than the zig zag for bar tacking shoulder straps.

  • The oscillating shuttle is not as reliable as rotary. An oscillating shuttle rotates back and forth, a rotary shuttle rotates in one continuous motion. Almost all industrial machines use a rotary shuttle.

Pfaff 130

Pfaff model 130

Pfaff model 130

  • This is my oldest machine- at least 40 years old and is often referred to as a semi-industrial machine because it has heavy duty parts.

  • It has a rotary shuttle and is very smooth.

  • One problem with machines this old is the insulation on the power cord and motor is often brittle or completely gone. This can be a safety hazard so be aware.

  • The biggest problem with this machine is its lack of ergonomics. You have to tilt the head back to change bobbins and the reverse lever is slow to use.

  • It doesn’t sew in reverse very well.

Pfaff 1471

Pfaff model 1471

Pfaff model 1471

  • I don’t know the age of this machine, but it is totally computerized and has an unlimited number of stitches. It appears to be made mostly of metal and has a rotary shuttle.
  • It sews very smoothly and I have had very few problems with skipped stitches and poor tension.
  • I don’t use any of the fancy stitches, because I bought it primarily for the pseudo walking foot (Pfaff calls this feature IDT). I really like the IDT for sewing slippery light weight nylon. Fabric creep is a real problem with silnylon and other high tech fabrics.
    Pfaff IDT

    Pfaff IDT

  • I have doubts about the longevity of this machine because of the electronics.

Alpha Sew

Alphasew Heavy Duty Machine

Alphasew Heavy Duty Machine

  • This machine has a zig zag stitch and a true walking foot.
  • It’s very heavy duty and is made with a cast iron frame.
  • It uses an oscillating shuttle and is more prone to skipping stitches.
  • This is one of many clones of this type of machine on the internet, the best are made in Taiwan.
  • This machine is very inexpensive and works well enough for very heavy fabrics and thread.
  • It’s important to note that I do not recommend this type of machine for light weight outdoor gear.
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Aug 03

Henry Ford is credited with saying, “Cut your own wood and you warm yourself twice.”

This statement brings to mind the main reason I make some of my own gear; because I enjoy it. I have always enjoyed making things and fabric has become my favorite material. The tools are readily available and inexpensive. Although I have several sewing machines, the one I use most is about 30 years old. It still sews as good as when it was new. I prefer the older machines because they are made of metal and are very simple, so repairs are easy but rarely needed. You can find older sewing machines in second hand stores and craigslist for $50.00 or less. A workshop is nice but isn’t necessary, you can easily sew most projects on your dining room table.

Another reason I make my own gear is that I can make it the way I want it. I prefer simple straight forward and most importantly, light weight designs. Most of the gear sold today is good quality and has an abundance of technical features. One of the main reasons for the number of features is the availability of cheap labor overseas. But all these pockets, straps and zippers add up to unnecessary weight and complexity. The materials used are usually quite robust because the retailers have to stand behind their products, quite often with an unconditional warranty. This also increases the weight.

Saving money is also a factor in my choice to make my own gear. I can make a backpack just the way I want for $30.00 or less and often under $20.00. This is because I look for good prices on fabric and I stock up on the bargains. Making one backpack probably isn’t enough financial incentive, but I will be making at least three that will be customized for specific activities. Add to that several tents, sleeping quilts, stuff bags, totes and other accessories and the savings are substantial.

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Jul 21

Phil

Phil

I have always enjoyed outdoor activities. I have also enjoyed designing and making things. I have used many different materials for these projects including wood, metal, plastic and fiber-glass. I have owned a variety of boats in the last 20 or so years and have always done my own work on them.

About 15 years ago I had a boat that needed new sails and canvas. I took a sail making class at Orange Coast College and with the help of my wife, started learning to sew using an old Kenmore sewing machine we have owned for the last 27 years. It soon became apparent that the Kenmore wasn’t up to the task of sewing the heavy canvas, so I purchased a very old Pfaff 130. I customized it to sew the heavy canvas and started redoing all of the canvas on the boat.

Since I first started sewing, I have owned three more boats and have sewn many projects for them. I have saved thousands of dollars and enjoyed creating all of the custom projects for the boats. I never did make sails but I did sew a lot of canvas. Over the years I have also
designed and sewn many types of canvas totes and duffel bags for family use and to give away as gifts.

I recently became interested in tackling camping and hiking gear. I searched the web and didn’t find many patterns for the type of gear I wanted. At this point it became apparent that I should make some good patterns and instructions to make future projects easier and quicker. One backpack led to another. So far I have designed, created patterns and sewn two types of backpacks, a duffel bag, chalk bag, and assorted others.

Sewing projects I have completed

A few of the sewing projects I have completed so far

Since there was a shortage of good, functional and easy to understand patterns, I decided to create this blog and companion website, elementsrefined.com and share what I have learned with other outdoor enthusiasts who really like to do things their own way. The website is currently under construction so check back here often for updates.

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