Elements Refined

Sewing Machine Review: Artisan 797 AB Industrial Walking Foot

Several months ago I realized I needed an industrial sewing machine. My Pfaff 130 was too cumbersome to use and the Alphasew is not flexible enough for the sewing I have been doing. I wanted a machine with a straight stitch, reverse and walking foot. Since I wasn’t using it, I sold the Pfaff 130.

I watched craigslist for about a month before a machine showed up that fit my needs – the Artisan 797AB. The price was $300.00 And although the machine had obviously been well used, it was not to the point that the paint was worn off. You have to push a lot of fabric through a machine to wear the paint off from a sewing machine, so I feel that I can estimate the amount of wear on the inside components by the amount of paint left on the outside.

During my search, there were few walking foot machines to choose from. Most of the machines out there are standard non walking foot machines or are too worn to be reliable.

A Closer Look at Artisan 797AB:

Fortunately, I was able to download a PDF owners manual for my new (used) machine from their website at http://www.artisansew.com. The manual is quite complete and along with the basics also includes information on how to adjust the hook timing, feed dog adjustments. etc. Having the manual makes a huge difference in learning to use the machine, which is a real bonus.

The basic specifications for the Artisan XX machine are:

• Medium to heavyweight fabric and leather

• 2000 maximum SPM

• 8mm maximum stitch length

• Presser foot lift 7/16”

• 14-22 needle which should be adequate for thread sizes from 33 to 138

• M size big bobbin

• Full rotating hook

• Lubrication by oil bath

• Reverse lever

Tension and thread path are well controlled on the Artisan 797 AB

The walking foot is a great help when sewing heavy fabric. It helps to eliminate slippage.

Differences Between Home and Industrial Machines:

One of the main differences between a home sewing machine and an industrial machine is the way the motor is constructed. Most industrial machines use a 1/2 horsepower motor that always runs at full speed.

Most industrial sewing machines have a 1/2 horsepower motor

When you press the foot pedal it actuates a clutch that engages the machine. This really takes some getting used to. When I started using the machine, I was worried that I might never get used to the power and speed of the machine. It takes very little pressure to get the machine up to the full speed of 2000 stitches per minute. After a month though, I am getting used to it and now I really appreciate the speed and smooth operation of the machine.

There is an oil pan below the machine and a full rotary hook driven by a geared shaft

This machine is listed as being suited to sewing medium to heavyweight fabrics. I tested it using a #14 needle and #40 thread and it performed quite well on fabric that has some “body” to it. It doesn’t work well on extremely light silky fabric, yet has no problem with heavier fabric and #92 thread. It doesn’t bog down at all on anything that will fit under the presser foot. The tension is very forgiving and stays adjusted on many different thicknesses of fabric.

Things to Know:

There are a few downsides to an industrial machine though:

• Big and HEAVY, not at all portable.

• Needs special needles and bobbins.

• Not as flexible as a home machine as far as attachments and stitches (it won’t sew button holes for instance)

• A learning curve to get used to the faster speed and power.

These disadvantages are far outweighed by the benefits this type of machine has to offer. I’m extremely happy with the performance of this machine and I’m glad I bought it.

Be sure to leave your comments or questions below. Don’t forget to checkout the rest of my site and view some of my latest projects.

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The B2850 backpack has 2850 cu in capacity and weighs less than 2 pounds.

My B2850 backpack is complete and loaded with goodies! There’s a lot to discuss so let’s start off with the basics. The backpack is 2850 cubic inches and has a body made of 200D nylon with a strong bottom of 400D nylon. I used a framesheet for suspension, load lifters, compression straps –the works. Knowing that every little inch and element counts; I also included a handy adjustable/removable lid and collar to increase the capacity.

Because I wanted to keep the pack lightweight, I used a top-loading design, but added a lacing system on the exterior for jackets and the like. It works great for those need-to-access-quickly items. Furthermore, I gave the pack two zippered pockets on either side that are easy to access, but will still keep your valuables safe.

Zippered pockets on the B2850

The great news is that this backpack can definitely be made with a home sewing machine. I decided to you use both my Kenmore 1802 as well as my Artisan Industrial machine to test out both of them. Both worked very well and I was pleasantly surprised to conclude that a home machine can do the job.

Shoulder and sternum strap

Here are my lessons-learned from the experience:

• The biggest problem I faced was keeping in mind that every step had to be done in proper sequence. For example, the bladder pocket must be sewn to the framesheet pocket prior to sewing the framesheet pocket to the body.
• Shoulder straps can be difficult at first because of the need to insert the foam properly. Fortunately, it only takes a few tries to get the hang of it.
• Don’t underestimate the time it takes to make the pack.
• It will be a challenging, yet very rewarding project.

My recommendation is to start off with a sewing project that is a little more basic, unless you’re experienced. For example, a good starter project is sewing a duffel bag or a zipper pouch. The bonus is that you will have a handy new bag, as well as get great experience in making your own outdoor gear.

Best of luck and be sure to leave comments and/or questions.